Charlie Gottenkieny from Bruz Beers discusses the storied tradition

By Kyle Kirves

Editor’s Note: In this, the third of three articles about Belgium and Belgian-styled beers, Thirst Colorado contributor Kyle Kirves talks with Bruz Beers head brewer, co-founder, and Belgian beer enthusiast, Charlie Gottenkieny about the variety of styles and tastes that fall into the Belgian and Belgian-style motif – some you may know, some you don’t. They also discuss how a continental beer rivalry in the 19th century transformed the beer landscape forever. Click here to read Part 1 in the series, and Part 2.

Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention. And conflict is the fulcrum of every great tale. Upstarts and underdogs, heavyweight champions and those with just a puncher’s chance. It permeates our storytelling and it’s a part of the world history of great beer.

Charlie Gottenkieny, co-founder and head brewer at Bruz Beers, explains how the rise of Czech pilsner beer created new innovation in Belgium. While history may not remember it as the Great Beer War of the later 19th century, that’s certainly what I’ve decided to call it.

“The Czech city of Pilsen started brewing these light, pale beers that presented really well in glasses as opposed to traditional stoneware or crockery,” Gottenkieny says of the beer style we now refer to from its origin city. “Beautiful, golden beers. And the Germans adopted it and started creating their own pils beers and the style really took off from there.” It was, as Gottenkieny tells it, all anybody wanted to drink.

From such things are empires made.

While it may have seemed a harbinger of the end of distinct and varying beer styles, rumors of the demise of Belgian beers were greatly exaggerated. In fact, far from being intimidated by their Teutonic neighbors, Belgian brewers rose to the challenge. “In 1905, the Belgian university brewing schools held a contest to see if they could come up with something to rival the rise of pils style beers, Gottenkieny says.” One of these styles is familiar to folks with an affinity for a certain Fort Collins bicycle-themed beer.

“Amber,” Gottenkieny says, “is one of the styles that emerged from the contest as a favorite. It remains a very popular pub beer in Belgium today.” One of the other emerging favorites was the blond – a close relative of traditional dubbels but brewed with paler malts to make for a lighter colored, clear-presenting ale. Gottenkieny cites the easily found Leffe beer as an example of the style. Tripels, too, count themselves among the contenders to challenge the dominance of pils. Pour a glass of Karmeliet Tripel and tell me it doesn’t look like liquid sunshine.

Other styles in the Belgian family you are likely already familiar with – for example, the national mainstay Blue Moon is an example of the Belgian White style; the less familiar lambic (and its most popular variation, gueuze) remain popular in the U.S. even while consumption overseas declines. The Cantillon brand is the ultimate expression of the style. It may not be as easily found as some others, but it is eagerly sought out.

Citing the importance of yeast selection in Belgian brewing, Gottenkieny says that the complexity and taste of the yeast in Belgian beer is by design. It’s a flavor component full of esters and phenols that give Belgians notes of fruit or spice. Most American brewing tradition tries to keep yeast flavors neutral in favor of hops.

Still, Gottenkieny explains that there are literally hundreds of beers made in Belgium that defy easy categorization. “They are just one-offs or experiments or things that don’t fit in with an established style,” he says. Sounds like a ready-made beer Odyssey for the ale-inclined.

But if a trip to Belgium is not in your foreseeable future, fear not: Gottenkieny and the team at Bruz has you covered. Monthly, the midtown brewery offers a 2-plus hour tasting and history lesson in the marvels of Belgian beer. Your ticket gets you a sample of over a dozen beers, true Belgians and state-side representatives of styles as well. It also includes a backstage tour of the brewing operations. Bruz produces examples in the Belgian tradition from enkels to blondes to Belgian strong ales – their menu is a kind of passport into the world of Belgian-inspired brewing.

While the history of Belgian beers is a long and storied one, it is not as intimidating as you may think. The range and tastes of Belgians certainly offer something for virtually everyone – whether their tastes gravitate to the sweet or the sour, the strong or the light, the bold or the nuanced. Start your journey with Gottenkieny and the good people at Bruz and you’ll likely feel transported to Brussels or Bruges. The only thing missing is the waffles.