The hidden gem of the San Luis Valley is worth the trip

Story and photos by David Young

Finding solitude in Colorado this fall can seem as elusive as a cutthroat trout, but it's possible. While major destinations across the state and the I-70 corridor get overrun with tourists and locals alike looking for that perfect campground or Instagram pic, pockets of the Centennial State are still off the beaten path. Del Norte, in southern Colorado, is one of those spots.

Located in the heart of Rio Grande County near the San Juan Mountains in the San Luis Valley, Del Norte is situated on the banks of the Rio Grande River. The small town was established in 1872 as a base camp for the mining operations that pepper the surrounding mountains.

Today, those same mountains are filled with recreation opportunities, from four-wheeling to hiking, while the remains of the old mines are still evident.

We recently made the journey down south to explore Del Norte and the surrounding area, showcasing some of Colorado’s best under-the-radar spots.

Where to stay — Mellow Moon Lodge

As the early fall afternoon sun illuminated the Sangre De Cristo Range to the north, we arrived and checked into a quaint retro motel called the Mellow Moon Lodge, which would serve as our home base. The small motel, right off the highway, offers 15 newly renovated rooms that are equally old and new.

The self-check-in via text meant we could punch in a code and go directly to our room after the long journey. The rooms are complete with a small fridge, television, high ceilings, updated modern bathrooms, and air conditioning.

The Mellow Moon is also home to the Lunar Lounge, where you can grab a coffee or cocktail and some little bites to eat. The Rodeo Mercantile, in place of a traditional lobby, has an array of local goods and gifts available. And the self-serve Canteen is a micro kitchen that has beer, water, food, and dishes for guests to take advantage of.

The property also has outdoor seating, corn hole and fire pits.

Where to eat — everything is walkable

After settling in, we walked down Grand Avenue. The town is filled with coffee shops, bakeries, restaurants, a brewery and a distillery previously covered in Thirst.

Mid-week options are limited later in the day as many shops and restaurants close early; however, we had a craft beer and the best grass-fed queso burger you’ll ever find at the Colorado Grille and Tap House.

Some highlights to check out in town include:

Chavolo's Mexican Restaurant - A great option for a margarita and some Mexican food.
Trade & Post - A natural wine and beer parlor that offers records and live music throughout the summer months.
Three Barrel Brewing Co. - Craft beer and wood-fired pizza make for a great pairing at this small Colorado brewery.
Almost Home Ice Cream - Enjoy homemade ice cream seven days a week at this small ice cream parlor.
Raisin’ Ryes Micro Bakery - From coffee to small baked goods, this is a great spot to start the day.

More options down the road

While there are more than enough options in Del Norte alone, just down the road are Alamosa, Monte Vista and South Fork, all home to a variety of dining and recreation options.

If you want to make a short drive, consider checking out The Friar’s Fork in Alamosa, which was nominated for a James Beard Award last year. The old church building, converted into a restaurant, offers an array of Italian and Mediterranean dishes, complete with a cocktail lounge.

Another great option is Quincy’s Steakhouse in Monte Vista. The tavern only offers steak on the menu, so it is as advertised.

Rachel’s Keep on Keepin’ On in South Fork is widely considered the best burger in the valley. It is a roadside food truck that uses meat straight from the owner’s ranch. Also, Sand Dunes Recreation, which is a natural hot spring pool in Hooper, east of Del Norte, offers a full bar and a good food menu.

Where to play — surrounded by beauty

The best part of Del Norte is the natural playground that surrounds it. From hiking to lakes full of fish to off-roading to old mine ruins, there’s no lack of outdoors to explore.

The Play Wave at the Town Park in Del Norte is part of the Riverfront project, providing a fun way to cool off in the summer by kayaking or tubing. In spring and summer, there are also tons of great fishing options along the Rio Grande River and the South Fork of the Rio Grande in South Fork, just down the road. Jackalope Anglers in Del Norte can provide local insight and guided trips for the area.

The Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a short drive from Del Norte, offering a unique landscape filled with sand and a small springtime stream, with the backdrop of the massive Sangre de Cristo mountains.

In terms of hiking, the Sangres are filled with trails to explore, including several of Colorado’s famed 14,000-foot peaks. For a more low-key hike, the Middle Frisco Trailhead just outside of town takes you to San Francisco Lakes, where you can also cast a fly rod and likely catch a few fish. There’s also the Coller Wildlife Area near Creede that offers amazing views and excellent access to the Rio Grande River.

If you keep driving to Creede, you’ll find the Bachelor Loop Historic Tour. This is a 17-mile loop on dirt roads, some of which require 4-wheel, showcasing old mines and ghost towns from the 1890s. The interpretive signs along the route provide insight into what life looked like in the region 100 years ago.

Regardless of which direction you decide to go, Del Norte and Southern Colorado are filled with amazing views, excellent restaurants, and quirky motels, all of which are off the beaten path, providing a quieter and relaxing escape for those looking to see the horizon and a dark sky full of stars at night.