History, hot springs, local libations all on tap over the border

By the Thirst Team

Bugs Bunny suggested taking a left in Albuquerque, N.M. Instead, we suggest taking a right in Española, N.M., for a great overnight road trip to Jemez Springs.

24 in 24 series
Here are some great ways to spend 24 hours any time in 2024. This is the first entry. Check back for more suggested quick trips in Colorado and neighboring states, or sign up for our newsletter and never miss a story.

Drive south on US Highway 285 from Alamosa for about two hours. Instead of taking a left and heading for Santa Fe, turn right in Española. You will drive past Los Alamos National Laboratory, recently made famous in “Oppenheimer.” After another hour on the Jemez Springs Scenic Byway, you will arrive in Jemez Springs. And here is how to spend a perfect 24 hours in the historic town, which is surrounded by the Santa Fe National Forest.

How to relax

Start the vacation by soaking the weary bones and washing off the road dust. The Jemez Springs Bath House offers private indoor tubs, as well as massage and spa services.

Another option is Jemez Hot Springs. The spot has a series of communal tubs that typically range from 98 to 105 degrees fahrenheit.

“Our quiet property is tucked away in rural Jemez Springs, surrounded by stunning mesa walls and offering a soaking experience that is uniquely free of sulfur odor,” said Clare Bryant Boersma, who works in marketing for Jemez Hot Springs.

Where to stay

There are three rustic cabins at Jemez Hot Springs, as well as two other nearby lodging options. Cañon del Rio is a sister property to the hot springs. It is an adobe-style inn and day spa, and rooms cost around $160 per night (with a discount for hot springs guests. The company also operates the more modest Laughing Lizard Inn, across the street from the hot springs. Rooms cost about $110, and combination discounts also are available.

What to eat

Round out the evening at the Jemez Mountain Brewhouse, which makes artisan pizza with filtered Jemez spring water and imported Italian flour. General Manager David Martinez said he incorporated a generations-old red chile recipe into a spicy red pizza sauce. Of course, being in New Mexico, green chiles also are available as a pizza topping.

The brewhouse has several local beers and ciders on tap, and Martinez said he expects to tap his own brews this month.

What to see

To finish your 24-hour trip, take in the region’s culture and history. Fuel up with coffee and pinon-laced baked goods at the Highway 4 Cafe. Then head to the Jemez Historic Site, which includes the stone remnants of a 700-year-old village and the San José de los Jemez church that dates to a 1621 Catholic mission.

The village of Giusewa was built in San Diego Canyon by the ancestors of the present-day residents of Jemez Pueblo, and the name refers to the natural springs. A 1,400-foot interpretive trail winds through ruins, and expanded self-guided tours are available via smartphone.

To jump to the present, visit the Pueblo of Jemez, also known as Walatowa to its 1,700 tribal residents. The visitor center includes a free history museum, and guided tours are available. Check the website for fees, public events and visitor etiquette.

For lunch, sample Frito pie, fry bread, Pueblo cookies and more at the Pueblo. Or stop at Dave’s Burgers for a green chile cheeseburger.

Bring home some flavor

On the way back to Colorado, get souvenirs at the Pueblo, and pick up a couple of bottles at Ponderosa Winery, which claims the largest Reisling vineyard in New Mexico. The winery also offers some history, using grapes that have been grown in the Ponderosa Valley since the 1880s.

Ideas? Let us know what other spots we should feature in our “24 in 24” travel series.