Plan backpacking trips far from the maddening crowds

By Steve Graham

Some parts of the Colorado backcountry may not feel like wilderness as much as they once did. Even backpackers are likely to have some company throughout Rocky Mountain National Park and on most 14ers.

The best-known parts of Colorado attract plenty of adventurers. Still, it’s a big state with a lot of forested public land, so here are some other suggestions for a more remote Colorado backpacking trip.

Buffalo Peaks Wilderness Loop

This is the rarest of finds — a moderate 12-mile loop trail suitable for beginner backpackers that typically isn’t too crowded, owing partly to being 10 miles off the highway, and partly to the distance from any 14ers.

The trail, south of Fairplay, passes meadows, forest, waterfalls and creeks. There is plenty of access to water, and maybe too much water for the spring and early summer. Expect wet boots after stream crossings any time of year, and soggy trails early in the season.

There are several campsites at the top of the loop. You can also add some elevation and challenge yourself by climbing the namesake Buffalo Peak 13ers.

Upper Cataract Lake Trail

Another rare pleasure is a long, shaded trail that is lightly traveled, but relatively easy to reach. Less than two hours from Denver, find the Surprise Trailhead just off Highway 9 north of Silverthorne in the Eagles Nest Wilderness.

Set out on a 10-mile hike past Surprise Lake to a view of Cataract Lake from the top of the trail. There is a short and steep trail from there to Upper Cataract Lake.

This streamside route has abundant wildflowers but can attract a lot of mosquitoes early in the season. Also look for bear, elk and moose in the meadows near the trail.

Woody Creek Trail

This 18-mile round-trip is a year-round option, as it begins with a shorter trek to the Marcy and McNamara huts. It then continues to the Woody Creek headwaters, up to a steep ridge and down to Hunter Creek.

The trail outside Aspen doesn’t travel to a particular destination but it offers some magnificent views of the Maroon Bells. There is also some wildlife spotting, including bears, so take care with food.

The trail is rarely traveled and not obvious in some areas. Look for cut logs and tree notches for clues to the right path. Dispersed camping is widely available; be sure to get off the trail at least 100 feet.

Lake Park Loop

For a longer three- or four-day trip, or a really hardcore weekend outing, try a 23-mile loop near Florissant that travels by Goose Creek, Lake Park, McCurdy Park and Hankins Pass. Start at the Spruce Grove Campground, climb past Lizard Rock to cross Hankins Pass. The trail then climbs up to Lake Park and drops into a valley with excellent views of summer wildflowers and fall foliage.

The full loop climbs more than 5,600 feet, with some very steep stretches. It also includes some long legs without ponds and streams, so plan to carry plenty of water.

The route links several trails, which can be hard to find. Be sure to carry or download a good map.

Lone Eagle Peak

Finally, start at the Monarch Lake Trailhead north of Granby for a challenging 14-mile trek to some of the most beautiful views in the state.

Hike past Cascade Falls and several other waterfalls on the climb up to Mirror Lake. At the right time of day, the namesake mirror is a reflection of the relatively short but isolated and visually stunning Lone Eagle Peak.

There are also plenty of connections to climbing routes as well.

Note that the Indian Peaks wilderness has a $5 parking fee. Overnight trips require a permit, and camping is limited to designated and reserved sites. Be sure to request a permit several months in advance, especially for summer weekends.

Be safe and smart

The isolation of a little-traveled trail means safety and preparation become even more important. Light traffic can mean a trail is not as well marked, and it is more likely to be both remote and challenging. Also, you are unlikely to encounter others who might be able to lend a hand.

The following expert tips apply to any backcountry adventure, particularly for remote wilderness trips in the spring and early summer months.

Stay hydrated: Carry one gallon per person per night and treat all stream water before consuming. While it’s tempting to slip a hip flask into the backpack, avoid alcohol and caffeine to limit dehydration and altitude sickness.

Also, always purify stream water. It’s tempting to think that headwater streams are clean and pure, but giardia is always a risk. Be thoughtful about timing your water run. “Don’t get water at dusk and dawn because that’s when the wildlife is getting water,” said Barry Sweet, wilderness office manager for Rocky Mountain National Park.

Dress right: Plan for freezing temperatures through June for most alpine areas. Remember that summer doesn’t necessarily start on Memorial Day. “It’s not completely summer until the middle of July,” Sweet said. He also suggests bringing traction devices for shoes in the spring and early summer, as lingering snow is likely.

Be avalanche aware: “Avalanches don’t just impact people new to the backcountry, they can impact seasoned backcountry outdoor enthusiasts,” said Bridget Kochel, public information officer for Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Check the avalanche forecast and take a safety course. “You can’t really help yourself in the backcountry if you don’t know what to protect yourself from,” Kochel said. In general, prepare for challenges in snowy spring adventures.

“It is important to be mindful that winter sports require a different level of physical stamina,” Kochel said. “For example, if you are hiking and fall into deep snow you have to be able to pull yourself out. Being responsible outdoors can help prevent overloading our first responders and search and rescue teams.”

Be bear aware: After seeing a yearling bear in my central Fort Collins driveway, I can attest that bears appear in the most surprising places. Sweet said at least 24 bears live in Rocky Mountain National Park, even though that number may be dropping. “We kill a bear a year because of a human interaction,” he said. Carry bear spray, wear a bell or other noisemaker and put your food and other scented items in bear canisters.

Listen for wind: Sweet has also seen plenty of wind-caused accidents in the park. “It’s the fall that kills you but the wind that blows you off balance,” he said. “On exposed ledges, listen with all your ears. When you start to hear it in the distance, you go from a 2-point contact to a 3-point contact or a 4-point contact.” In other words, stabilize yourself by putting one or two hands on the ground.

Camp safely: Try to set up your campsite away from standing dead trees. Pitch your tent where others have already camped, and keep the site small. “We don’t want site creep,” Sweet said.

Communicate: Finally, tell someone where you are going and have a backup plan in case of problems. Call the local forest service office for conditions and closures, particularly after last year’s widespread fires. For a list of offices, visit cpw.state.co.us/thingstodo

Steve Graham is a freelance writer and former newspaper editor who takes his two boys biking, hiking and brewery-hopping in northern Colorado.