“There is a road, no simple highway, between the dawn and the dark of night.”
- Lyrics from the Grateful Dead’s Ripple

By The Thirst Colorado Team

The path to opening the doors at the Grateful Gnome Sandwich Shoppe & Brewery in north Denver was anything but simple. Owner and Grateful Dead fanatic Dan Appell smiled wide on Wednesday as he finally invited the public in to see his spacious brewery and deli across the street from the venerable Oriental Theater at West 44th Avenue and Stuart St. “I’ve anticipated this day for so long,” he said.

The Gnome features a Jersey-style deli modeled after the one his family operated in New Jersey. With 50 sandwiches, and generous portions of Boar’s Head meats and cheeses, few will walk away hungry.

As for the brewery, he was able to keep Bess Dougherty on the line through the last few years of construction and licensing problems while the Gnome fought to open. Dougherty, who gained experience as the lead brewer at Wynkoop Brewing downtown, has kept her skills tuned up by brewing with friends at other breweries around town. She collaborated on the Makin’s Noise: A Pussy Riot Beer, among others.

For opening day, Dougherty featured Giggity, an IPA she brewed at Woods Boss, which reportedly honored its brewing commitment to the Gnome despite putting on hold its own brewing schedule. The other 13 taps featured local beers, a C Squared Ciders offering and a craft root beer. Soon, Dougherty will fill most of the taps with her own creations.

Appell said he is excited to bring a “blue-collar” experience to the northside (mores specifically, the Berkeley neighborhood). He’s preaching good food and good beer at a fair price. Sandwiches will start at about $7 and beers at $5-$6.

A small stage will feature jam bands and bluegrass gigs. Up to 88 people can sit inside, while the deck on the east side will hold about 35.

“The Jurnt” is a small space inside the Gnome for parties or private gatherings that Appell hopes to offer up to local businesses and revelers who need a bit of seclusion. When growing up, he and buddies used to gather at a friend’s house in Jersey that they called the Jurnt.

One of the most anticipated Denver brewery openings of the last few years faced numerous challenges during the journey. A plank used for scaffolding at a construction project next door crashed through the roof last June causing delays. The plank missed Dougherty by a few feet. Other problems with plumbing, licensing and just about everything else that could go wrong kept the doors closed for more than two years.

Now, it’s up and running, featuring gnomes, Grateful Dead-inspired art and other fun goodies as part of the décor.