Sierra restaurant crafts old-world flavors with local ingredients

By Dionne Roberts

Sierra restaurant opened in Lone Tree last December in a distinctive space serving a menu of upscale but approachable wood-fired Mexican dishes and fine California-inspired cuisine.

It is the newest addition to Brinkerhoff Hospitality, owned by the father-son team that owns La Loma in downtown Denver. They carry pieces of their first venture into the ambiance and menu at Sierra. Chef Gerry Castro, culinary director for the group, marries his Mexican heritage and Napa Valley background with Brinkerhoff family recipes to establish upscale, regional cuisine.

“The concept of Sierra means Colorado because there is a lot of history here,” says Castro. “A little bit of Mexican, some from the Spanish that passed through… we have a lot of different ethnicities reflected on the menu.”

The food is a clear collaboration of broad strokes that range from California-style farm-to-table options, crossing into elevated Creole-spiced steaks and seafood. A Southwestern influence brings Tex-Mex fajitas into the fold and stretches all the way to West Texas spaghetti. Witness Sierra’s signature wagyu rib roast as it turns on a spit with rotisserie chickens in the open kitchen right next to an old-world clay oven, which produces Hatch chile rellenos and cheese-and-onion enchiladas that rank among house favorites.

“Mexican food is something you can eat everyday and that’s what I grew up on,” says Castro. “That makes us different and it works because we are an everyday restaurant, not an occasional restaurant.”

Beyond preserving tradition, Castro focuses largely on responsible sourcing from nearby farms and ranches with a strong grasp on the value of homemade goodness. Buns and breads are made in-house, antibiotic-free prime cuts of meat come from Gold Canyon Gourmet Angus Beef, and 100-percent organic greens travel a short distance from One Town Farms in Larkspur.

The food and beverage menus aim for simplicity but offer more with Castro’s precise execution and intentionality. Unpretentious
a la carte offerings include Johnny cakes and green chile mac n’ cheese beneath a savory list of hearty soups, salads and sandwiches.

“I love to cook approachable food,” says Castro. “I grew up on a farm so for me food is about getting everybody together to express your happiness through the food you cook.”

An enticing U-shaped bar reigns in the middle of the restaurant with a gradient rainbow of colors circling overhead to advertise a solid collection of spirits. Most of the cocktails stay true to the theme, with refreshing margaritas and a bright paloma made with bold, red grapefruit juice. Local whiskey shines in an American Manhattan made with Distillery 291, Punt e Mes and savory black walnut bitters. The wine list also stands out, with generous references to Castro’s Napa Valley roots.

The atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed but eye-catching, with architectural touches from the expansive, steeple ceiling to the exposed maple-colored wood beams. Elements of Michoacan copper, bricks from the original La Loma in LoHi and metal appliances from Mexico make the impressive structure feel rustic and welcoming.

“We want to create good food, a good menu and a place where you can come hang out with friends,” says Castro. “We built a place where everyone can feel that. Where you immediately feel like you’re home.”

Colorado Springs resident Dionne Roberts is the editor of the Rocky Mountain Food Report, rockymountainfoodreport.com.