All aboard for a backcountry deep-dive

By Joe Ross

Everyone has a different idea of a peak experience when exploring Colorado’s backcountry.

While hopping off a train at 8,000 feet in elevation with just a backpack is not for the faint of heart, it offers a next-level experience that few will ever have the chance to consider.

The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad carries thousands of tourists back and forth between the towns throughout the year, providing incredible views of the Animas River in the San Juan National Forest. While a seat on the train will provide impressive photos, getting off your seat and hiking into the Weminuche Wilderness guarantees memories for a lifetime.

Nick Kogos and friends hopped off the train in June and spent three days wide-eyed, crossing paths with wildlife and taking shelter from lightning that felt close enough to make your hair stand up. As a marketing manager for Visit Durango, Kogos has spent considerable time exploring the Four Corners area. However, the train trip into the backcountry was a first, and it presented a few harrowing moments and fantastic stories.

The Weminuche Wilderness includes nearly a half million acres, including Chicago Basin, which served as a base camp for Kogos and crew, and Mount Eolus, at 14,085 feet.

Because this particular backcountry wilderness is only accessible by train or hiking (no cars, bikes or off-highway vehicles), Kogos said he saw more wildlife than people. Dall sheep, more curious than afraid, shared the mountainsides throughout the trip, along with marmots foraging for snacks.

About six miles separate the train from the Chicago Basin base camp. Kogos said travelers need to have a pack strategically loaded with high-energy foods and other staples required to cover all scenarios for the length of the trip.

“There is no quick escape,” he points out. “The train runs twice a day and is six-plus miles away from where you’re camping.”

With roughly three hours of hiking needed to reach the train flag stop, inexperienced backpackers would be ill-advised to venture off into the wilderness without being accompanied by veterans.

ASCENT

With their mountain legs under them, Kogos and company headed up Mount Eolus on the second day of the trip, summiting North Eolus at 12:45 p.m. Because snow and ice are common on Colorado’s high peaks in June, Kogos said hiking became more of a scramble, with a bit of ice climbing near the top.

After reaching the top and celebrating being the first to summit that day, the group could see that another exhilarating adventure awaited them: an afternoon thunderstorm.

After descending for roughly an hour, Kogos said the storm had unleashed lightning that was within one mile. Many experts have discussed what to do in such situations, but Kogos said instinct and fear forced the group to seek shelter under pine trees at about 12,000 feet.

Sharing a hot-apple tea with spiced rum later in the day – long after the storm had passed and the group was comfortable in camp – Kogos and his friends were able to loosen up and celebrate. But when on the mountain during the storm, his thoughts ranged from: “Where is the closest place to duck where the lightning will strike something else instead of me?”

To, “How quickly can I separate myself from my metal hiking poles and tripod?”

He acknowledges that the adventure includes some high-risk situations that elevate the experience. “At the same time though,” he said. “I would not want to be in the news cycle and Facebook as another idiot who died from the elements and knew better.”

Kogos survived the adventure unscathed with a 14er under his belt and beautiful photos documenting the fun.

Once they hiked back down to the train to catch the ride back to Durango, Kogos said he drank two Mexican Loggers from Ska Brewing and gobbled up a bag of sour cream and onion potato chips. Adventure complete.