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Colorado meats for the holiday table

November 5, 2021 Steve Graham

The Buckner Family on their farm

Wow the crowd with fresher, more flavorful and more sustainable local turkey, lamb and beef

By Kristin Owens 

The holidays are for over-indulging, over-imbibing and over-eating, which will propel you into January’s new-year, new-you nonsense. But for now, let’s enjoy ourselves, shall we? It’s been a year.

If you’re a meat-eater, treat yourself and guests to the best available. Colorado family farms raise delicious lamb, beef, turkey, chicken, and pork, all (surprisingly) within a grocery-store price range. Bring on the meat sweats!

Good Decisions

MaryKay Buckner of Longmont’s Buckner Family Farm says when purchasing local meats, customers should ask how the animals were raised, treated and fed. Really, “the animals should have only one bad day,” she says. 

And don’t be fooled by labels — corporate feedlots can still be considered organic, so do some research and beware of taglines. Buckner’s lamb and beef is 100 percent grass-fed because Colorado varieties like alfalfa, brome and other native grasses produce less fatty lamb. Plus, the beef has a deeper flavor profile. 

Adrienne Larrew of Corner Post Meats in Colorado Springs says, “What makes Colorado so awesome is the outdoors, adventures and appreciation of nature ... the way you nourish yourself should be the same.” For example, her 250 pigs forage in the forest because the animals get more exercise. The active lifestyle gives them a great marbling and fat cover compared to others.

An Honest Deal

Some argue it’s simple economics: Consumers expect meat to be cheaper when they buy larger amounts. Instead, Buckner suggests consumers should eat a little bit less, but focus on better quality. 

“We need to look out for our own needs because large grocery stores only look at their bottom line,” she says. Basically, you get what you pay for. 

Larrew agrees: “Cheap food cuts corners,” and raising healthy animals isn’t cheap. Plus, the labor involved with small-scale production commands higher expenses. But in the end, customers know where their meat comes from and a trust level is achieved. 

That’s why Friendly Nick’s Butcher in Fort Collins is designed with a large open processing space. Patrons can witness the skill that goes into preparing roasts, chops and filets. Nick Chase buys the whole animal and breaks it down over two days. 

By purchasing the entire cow, he provides customers with unusual cuts typically not offered in a grocery store. Specialties like Denver steak and bistro tender make up 30-plus different cuts. “It’s labor intensive,” he says, but larger packing houses won’t do it because it’s not profitable. 

Pre-Planning

During the holidays, when families and friends gather for a big meal, meat is often the centerpiece. Kristin Ramsey of Long Shadow Farm in Berthoud says leg of lamb, whole turkey, prime rib, ham and loin roast are the most popular. “It’s all about presentation,” she says. She processes about 200 turkeys and they all sell out in advance. 

Chase also recommends ordering at least a month out, especially his brined turkeys and hams, because they sell out within two weeks. Ramsey advises, “Plan on one pound of meat per guest, which will include leftovers.” 

Generally, grass fed beef can be a little unforgiving on the grill. Buckner says “most people tend to overcook it. It should be rare or medium rare for it to stay tender.” 

If farm-direct isn’t an option, Chase recommends purchasing meat from a butcher so you can ask questions about the cut and how to cook it. Basically, a butcher can “find a cut that brings value,” she says. And at the end of the meal, both the hosts and guests should be more than satisfied.

Contributor Kristin Owens passed the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Introductory Examination and travels the world looking for a good $10 bottle of wine. She’s a full-time writer based in Fort Collins. 

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