The difficult metamorphosis of a sour-focused brewery in Paonia

By Kristin Owens

Imagine fulfilling your dreams of opening a taproom, but the wrong paperwork is filed. Then, once it’s finally approved, a pandemic hits. Chrysalis Barrel-Aged Beer has had quite a saga. In a quest to provide a superstar line-up of sours in Paonia, it felt like the fates were conspiring.

An origin story

Head brewer Shawn Larson with taster tray.

It started off simply. Head brewer Shawn Larson wanted to make exceptional Belgian and farmhouse-inspired sours. With barley, hops and fruit literally down the road, beer would be brewed and aged using the best and freshest ingredients possible.

In fall 2018, a successful kick-starter campaign helped get things started. Spring 2019 saw weekly meetings with partners Frederick Zimmer and Adam Gall, and most importantly, the planting of barley. Despite full-time jobs, the partners busted butt, laying concrete and building the bar, while brewing and barrel aging.

Finally, in an old Palisade cherry orchard, among antiquated Porsches and motorcycles, copper Champion brewing tanks from Denver appeared. It was all meant to be.

Even though beer is art, a brewery is a business. They opened in July 2019 only to find out while filing paperwork that approval issues would put a pause on the tap room. After a few months, they rebooted in November 2019. Then boom… COVID. They closed with everyone else, to reopen only for carry-out. They had yet to order Chrysalis growlers, so locals brought in their own, as well as mason jars, Tupperware and any other containers they had, to help support the brewers.

It takes a small mountain town

Larsen says the partners knew there would be, “troubled waters to sustain the business.” But they hadn’t counted on a deluge lasting years. Determined to not let Chrysalis fail, they were prepared to pay the rent out of their own pockets to get over the hump. Later in 2020, they were open three days a week, which “was enough to pay the bills… we scratched by,” says Larsen. Overwhelming community support helped them keep the lights on.

In a mountain town better known for wine, a second brewery in Paonia was a risk, but a good one. Ironically, Paonia United Brewing, right around the corner, isn’t competition. They’re friends, and Larsen knew creating something unique could only add to the town’s limited beer menu. Chrysalis would “heighten the level of choices in Paonia,” he says. But in a small town, only so much business can come from locals. Summer tourism is really key. So far in 2021, business is good. People are traveling and spending money. And Chrysalis is open five days a week with a steady customer stream lining the bar.

Yeah, but what about the beer?

The line-up isn’t all sours.

“There’s always one guy in the bunch who hates them,” laughs Larsen. So, Chrysalis offers customers different options, like a brandy barrel-aged tripel, a bourbon barrel-aged stout and a barrel-aged farmhouse ale. Yes, there’s a constant thread: everything is barrel-aged. Everything. “With a twist,” Larson says. Their apricot sour is deliciously tangy and sweet, with a big juicy mouthfeel. The creativity continues with an Earl Grey and lavender sour. And it’s terrific.

When asked, Larson agrees, “Timing isn’t always everything.” It’s about persistence. Chrysalis was going to happen no matter what. And the strength of the partnership really mattered when things not only got tough, but bordered on insurmountable. They’ve got beer and customers to prove it. And lots of smiles.

Something to Try

Desert Dreams sour - 1 ½ years in barrel, 1 year in stainless on Chambourcin grapes with a beautiful cranberry cocktail color.

Kristin Owens is a Colorado writer who specializes in all things liquid and may have the best job in the world. Check out her writing at kristin-owens.com.