Brewery uses spontaneity and experimentation to find success amid craft beer downturn

By Malena Larsen

Colorado has a reputation for its abundant craft beer scene. From the state’s first brewery opening in 1859 to the launch of the Great American Beer Festival in 1982 to the inception of the Colorado Brewers Guild in 1995, craft beer has been a staple of the state’s identity for more than 150 years.

A brewery boom in the mid-2010s added 66 new breweries in 2014 – the highest number of openings in a single year. While it might feel like there’s still a brewery on every corner, those numbers aren’t quite what they used to be. In 2024, more breweries closed (41) than opened, surpassing the closures of 2020 (32) – a year notoriously difficult for businesses due to the COVID-19 pandemic. This shift could be partially attributed to the growing popularity of non-alcoholic and cannabis-based beverages.

A Wild Solution

What can breweries do to thrive in this shifting landscape? Could the key be a passion for the craft and a focus on flavor, experience and uniqueness? That approach has certainly worked for Wild Provisions Beer Project in Boulder.

Wild Provisions is a passion project born from the team at 4 Noses Brewing Company. Its approach is inspired by their visits to Belgium.

“A lot of us at 4 Noses had traveled to Belgium, separately from each other,” shares Dustin Ramey, 4 Noses Marketing Director. “It was serendipitous. After we had all been on these trips, we all took away how a community was built around the uniqueness of the beer.”

The 4 Noses team was drawn to the vibrant community built around spontaneous beer, especially the Belgian lambic style. Spontaneous beer (also known as wild or sour beer) is fermented using wild yeast and bacteria from the surrounding environment, like the air. Its flavors are fruity, tart, acidic, and “funky,” with colors ranging from straw to deep red or brown.

“At 4 Noses, we experiment with ingredients. At Wild Provisions we experiment with process,” Ramey says.

In addition to spontaneous beer, Wild Provisions specializes in Czech-style lagers.

“The popularity of the two beers is an even split,” Ramey shares. “We knew if we opened just a sour project, we’d have one type of customer which would not provide that community feel. We wanted something that was an ‘in between’ beer and that’s the Czech lager.”

Despite their vastly different flavor, Czech-style lagers and wild beer share some similarities in their brewing process. For example, both ferment in wooden vessels, allowing for unusual flavors to develop over time. One key difference is that the lagers use controlled yeast and are ready to drink in about 40 days, whereas spontaneous beers rely on wild fermentation and can take years to mature.

“People want to learn about the beer and they want to see the process,” Ramey mentions. “Spontaneous beers have a bit more nuance and take more time than your average IPA. We want people to feel like they can drink something unique and elegant without it feeling pretentious.”

Wild Provisions’ Spontaneous Brewing Process

The wort (the sugary liquid made from boiled malted grains that is fermented to create beer) is not produced at the Wild Provisions facility in Boulder. Instead, it’s done at the 4 Noses Brewing Company Broomfield location.

“A brew day lasts about four hours for lagers and 12 to 16 hours for spontaneous ales,” Ramey explains.

The wort is heated and transferred between the kettle and mash tun multiple times to extract fermentable sugars and complex carbohydrate strands. It is then transported in insulated totes from Broomfield to Boulder.

Next, it is transferred to a koelschip to cool naturally and absorb wild yeast from the air. A koelschip is a large vessel used to quickly cool hot wort by exposing it to the air (it’s how brewers cooled wort many generations ago before heat exchangers were created).

This process allows wild yeast from the environment to ferment the beer naturally. The goal is to cool the beer from 160°F to 70°F within 24 hours. Proper cooling ensures ideal fermentation and prevents undesirable bacteria or mold from developing.

The cooled wort is then transferred to oak foeders, which are large wooden fermentation vessels. Wild yeast begins fermenting the beer for anywhere between six months to three years. Some of the spontaneous ales are aged in specialty barrels to develop deeper flavors.

“Additional ingredients, like fruit, are sometimes added to enhance flavor and complexity,” describes Ramey.

For those interested in having a closer look at this process, Wild Provisions hosts an event called Koelschip Night.

“Sip a cold beer as we spontaneously ferment our wort right in front of your eyes,” states the brewery’s website. “Sample our finished sours and learn all about this ancient brewing process.”

The rise of hard seltzers and pre-made cocktails has shifted consumer expectations toward bold flavors. Wild Provisions has found the sweet (or sour) spot within these shifting consumer preferences.

“Wild Provisions has seen the most growth this year,” Ramey says, comparing it to the other locations: 4 Noses in Broomfield,
4 Noses in Park Hill, and Odd13 in Lafayette.

Ramey credits the brewery’s success not only to the quality and uniqueness of their beer but also to the engaging experiences they create for customers. Events like fly-tying workshops, ski and snowboard wax nights, koelschip nights, trivia, and other activities frequently fill the Boulder taproom.

“We also focus on inclusivity,” Ramey says. “Things like our women’s makers-market encourage demographics that aren’t just white men with beards to find comfort in our space and enjoy our beer.”

Just as Colorado’s craft beer scene has evolved over the last century, it will continue to change. While there’s nothing wrong with exploring new trends and beverages, there’s also beauty in honoring tradition and celebrating what craft beer is all about: passionate people, quality brews, and community. Wild Provisions has carved out its place by blending old-world techniques with modern creativity. So, raise your glass—whatever’s in it—and cheers to the craft in all its forms.