Understanding the heart of a Boulder County enigma

Story and photos by Malena Larsen

The Peak to Peak Scenic Byway takes travelers from Estes Park to Central City. Along this 55-mile scenic highway, there’s a smaller, lesser-known town of around 126 people called Ward.

Despite Ward only being about 20 miles from Boulder, it sits at nearly 9,500 feet and feels like the type of community you’d find deep in the mountains. Businesses that may or may not be open are tucked away in small buildings, local dogs freely roam the street, and broken down vehicles decorate the side of the road. Some say that the decrepit cars are there on purpose to keep “outsiders” away.

Unsurprisingly, these curiosities have given Ward the reputation of being weird – and weird it may be. However, being different doesn’t mean being inherently bad. From “The Ugly Duckling” to “Beauty and the Beast,” that’s a fable we’ve all been told since childhood.

Ward’s history: The peaks and valleys of striking gold

Named after prospector Calvin Ward, the town was founded in 1860 following the discovery of gold at Gold Hill. Over the last 165 years, this small mountain municipality has certainly seen its share of ups and downs. For instance, in 1900, a fire tore through many of its buildings. Despite efforts to rebuild and mines that were still turning a profit, Ward found itself nearly deserted by the 1920s.

“Two decades is a long time in both the lifecycles of mines and the communities that depend on mining for their livelihoods,” says Aaron Walton, creator of the website Western Mining History. “Towns can be thriving one year and nearly abandoned a few years later.”

Ward was revived again in the 1930s. This could be due to the growing popularity of the Peak-to-Peak highway, which was established in 1918 (making it Colorado’s oldest scenic byway). The town saw another surge in popularity in the 1960s, becoming an oasis for hippies yearning for a self-governed, off-the-grid lifestyle.

The current whispers of Ward

“I grew up between Nederland and Ward. Ward kids went to Nederland schools and I rode the school bus with them for about a decade in the ‘90s,” recalls one former resident who wished to remain anonymous. “In elementary school, several of the Ward kids didn’t have running water since they were living in repurposed mining cabins.”

Beyond tales of intricate family ties and other strange stories, the former resident was quick to emphasize that Ward remains, at its heart, a tight-knit and friendly community.

This is not the consensus online, however. After asking about people’s experiences in Ward on a forum, I received responses like, “Ward? Keep going,” “Skip Ward,” and the alarming, “Ever been shot at driving down the wrong dirt road? I have ... in Ward.”

Yet, a Ward local pushed back saying, “Most of the comments that I read in response to your post come from people who have no idea what it means to live in Ward 12 months per year.”

In a separate conversation, this current resident also shared, “People could stop by and walk the town; nothing will happen to them. Thousands of bicyclists ride up here on a given weekend every summer and fall.”

The truth is rarely found behind a keyboard, amidst the brazen opinions of an online forum. My own visits to Ward, particularly my recent stop at Marrocco’s Family Dining, have been positive.

Wonderfully weird: Ward’s true Colors

My fiancé and I stopped by Marrocco’s on a Friday night for an early dinner. Inside, a host stand greeted us alongside a tempting pastry display with cheesecake, chocolate cake and a dessert covered in pecans. The ambience was cozy and welcoming and the restaurant was filled with furniture you would expect to see in a bustling and loving home.

We started with baked brie and a bottle of pinot grigio. My fiancé went for the pasta with meatballs and I got the broccoli and shrimp scampi. After our meal, owner and chef Patrick Marrocco, wearing a plaid shirt and an apron and sporting a solid mustache, personally checked on us. He was attentive and it was clear he genuinely cared that we enjoyed our meal.

We shared the same glowing review with our waitress. She told us that Marrocco learned his craft from his grandmother, and that by trade he’s a “mechanic and a miner.”

Unfortunately, we did not leave room for one of those enticing desserts displayed at the entrance. Instead, we made a commitment to go back.

So, what’s really the deal with Ward? It’s a town built on a tumultuous, unpredictable industry, a spot for the free-spirited and perhaps misunderstood. Yet, at its core, it’s just another town, not a spooky spectacle. It’s a multidimensional place with its own dark stories as well as charming ones, where the population is simply trying to pay their bills, enjoy their peace, and feast on some fresh pasta made by kind locals.