Colorado’s diverse restaurant scene rebounding after pandemic

By Steve Graham

Jon Pinto is serving up some optimism about the Colorado restaurant industry.

“We’ve bounced back as an industry from economic downturn, pandemic, and supply chain issues to keep fresh, interesting, relevant and approachable food in front of our loyal guests,” said Pinto, general manager at Sunnyside Supper Club in northwest Denver.

Colorado’s restaurant scene has grown in both size and stature in recent years, but is still weathering some challenges amid a strange and unpredictable economic landscape.

Pinto said he loves to feed people, which he sees as something of an art form. He said his favorite part of being a restaurateur is “the camaraderie, being a part of a team of unique humans with different backgrounds, coming together to make what some would perceive as chaos actually a symphony.”

Hunter Shumaker is the general manager at Boulder Social. He also said he loves working on a culinary team, despite the industry’s challenges.

“We are students, dropouts, engineers, parents, entertainers, travelers, you name it,” he said. “The bond that forms between a team of people from all walks of life who work together in a restaurant is nothing short of spectacular. In addition, we get to host the party every day and create an experience for people to have a simple meal or celebrate one of the biggest days of their lives.”

Through more than 12,700 restaurants and bars, the foodservice industry adds more than $14 billion to Colorado’s economy each year and employs more than 260,000 workers, according to Denise Mickelsen, communication director for the Colorado Restaurant Association and Foundation.

There have always been plenty of eateries, but Colorado hasn’t always been known for an elevated food scene. That perception has changed as even small towns cultivate creative eateries, award-winning chefs and cuisine from around the globe.

“I for one am more interested in the regional cuisine of Asia, Italy, South America and everything in between…” Pinto said. “There’s something satisfying about finding a restaurant paying homage to the roots of a cuisine or specific dish than the mass-produced versions of yesteryear.”

Pinto manages Sunnyside Supper Club, with pizzas, sandwiches and more made from scratch with local, organic ingredients. It is part of the Mighty Hospitality Group, which also operates El Jefe farm-to-table Mexican in Sunnyside, Mighty Burger in Arvada, Lucky Pie pizza in Louisville, and Hook & Harvest in Silverthorne.

At Boulder Social, Shumaker sees the style and ambience of Colorado’s restaurants expanding with the global cuisines.

“Food and beverage programs have been elevated as we see many more chef-driven concepts come to life,” he said. “The farm-to-table movement as well as the focus on craft cocktails has made everyone want to focus on the quality of ingredients as well as care in preparation.”

Boulder Social is the recently opened sister restaurant to Stout Street Social, a downtown Denver restaurant with an eclectic menu, crafted cocktails and a well-curated tap list. The restaurant is a favorite stop before or after shows at the nearby Denver Center for the Performing Arts.

Customers at those restaurants and elsewhere are demanding higher levels of food, atmosphere and service.

“There are higher expectations now than ever before. People are more educated from TV shows and social media posts that fuel their desire for excellence in every facet of their dining experience,” Shumaker said.

Colorado diners also want to know more about the food itself.

“There is more of a focus on locality, seasonality, sourcing and perception of quality that has entered the mainstream consciousness of diners,” Pinto said.

While meeting these expectations, even acclaimed restaurants struggle with high inflation, hiring woes and supply chain problems.

“I feel like the industry is going through some growing pains as owners and operators are trying new models to combat rising labor and operational costs,” Shumaker said. “The margins have shrunk so much that it is very difficult to run a profitable business these days.”

Mickelsen, of the Colorado Restaurant Association, said food and beverage costs rose more than 20 percent in 2022, and labor costs also spiked. Meanwhile, utilities and supplies are also more expensive, driving eateries to raise prices and reduce hours.

She said more than half of local restaurants expect to be less profitable in 2023.

“That’s scary for an industry that hopes for 3 to 5 percent profit margins in a good year,” she said.

Pinto said some creative solutions to these challenges are baked into their business model.

“We make our own dough and our own cheese, we support whole animal butchery, so our relationships with farmers and ranchers and suppliers is paramount to quality and cost control,” he said. “We do everything in our power to keep an amazing product in front of guests without breaking the bank.”

Steve Graham is a freelance writer and former newspaper editor who lives in Denver with his lovely bride, boys and bikes.

This article is in the May-June issue of our print magazine. Click here to read the full magazine online.