Learn about Czech beer traditions with Eric Larkin of Cohesion Brewing

By Kyle Kirves

The Czech Republic has the highest per capita consumption of beer in the world. And it’s not even close!” says Eric Larkin, founder and head brewer at Czech-inspired and -influenced Cohesion Brewing.

That may sound surprising to beer fans stateside who see an awful lot of suds downed with their touchdowns at any ballgame. Yet beer is foundational to Czech culture in a way it isn’t anywhere else – and Larkin embraced that culture after an eye-opening trip to Europe.

A brewing vet with more than 10 years in the industry, Larkin was amazed that it had taken him so long to be exposed to Czech brewing traditions and history.

“I’d had Czech-style beers here in the states and thought, ‘Yeah, these are good, drinkable beers,’” he says, “But when I visited Prague and Pilsen, I could tell something was different. Everything from the beer itself to the pouring styles to the fermentation methods was distinct and different and memorable.”

One surprise? The reverence the Czechs have for Urquell, the original pilsner beer. “If you ask for a pilsner in the Czech Republic, you’re going to get the original Pilsner Urquell, brewed in the city of Pilsen since 1842,” Larkin says, redefining that commonplace term many Americans associate with macro-beer.

“Pilsner comes from one place only – everything else is, or should be, pilsner-style – including ours,” he continued. “While not an appellation, it is kind of a general agreement that that word isn’t used for any other beer than Pilsner Urquell.”

But that doesn’t mean that the Urquell is the only Czech beer out there, or the only one Czechs enjoy. Far from it. Czech brewing tradition embraces many fermentation and mashing techniques, creating a multitude of flavor profiles and styles. Cohesion Brewing, which opened last year in Denver’s Clayton neighborhood, is a showcase for many of them.

“One of the first things Czech brewers learn is decoction mashing – a technique we use at Cohesion,” Larkin says. Without getting too scientific, it’s a method that is prominent in the Czech Republic and Germany. Brewers take some of the mash out of the main mash, boil it separately, and return it to the main. It’s a key characteristic of certain beers, making them a bit richer and fuller in flavor, Larkin said.

Cohesion also embraces open fermentation, horizontal lagering, and a natural carbonation method that comes straight out of Czech brewing history books (and some tour books – you can still find Czech brewers using these techniques today).

“We strive to brew with Czech methods as much as we brew with local ingredients, the same as they would there,” he says. “We work with Troubadour malt specialists in Fort Collins to make a special malt just for us. Varietals and local (ingredients) contribute a lot to the individuality and character of Czech beers regionally. We try to emulate that.”

All of these elements contribute to what goes in the glass. But beyond what you’ll taste, Cohesion also reproduces what you’ll see at traditional breweries: distinct style-pouring techniques imported from the Republic – something that may raise eyebrows for the jerk-and-tilt crowd.

“LUKR faucets (side pull taps) are common in the Czech Republic, and aid in the different pours with various levels of foam native to Czech tradition,” Larkin says. “Up to and including the mliko pour, which is a full-foam pour meant to be consumed quickly before settling.”

Wait a second: full-foam pour? I thought foam was a bad thing, indicating the keg was floating and it was time to move on to the next house party. Turns out foam is a good thing in Czech beer tradition, though you can expect varying levels of foam to your preference at Cohesion. It’s all part of providing a near-authentic, Prague-on-the-Platte vibe – something that will reward the experimental beer tourist.

“The Czech people take a lot of pride in their beer. And that includes the tapsters, what we would call bartenders,” Larkin says. “It’s a role people take seriously and put a lot of attention toward.”

It’s an ethos that infuses Cohesion’s mission. Larkin explains, “I have a strong belief that we are a better country and community when we embrace diversity and other cultural perspectives. We want to be able to add to the diversity of the brewing community by bringing Czech styles to Denver. The public here is so knowledgeable. We thought people would latch on to it. We’re asking people to trust us and taste these beers along with us.”

So, just how close is Cohesion to hitting the bull’s eye in terms of replicating both Czech beer styles and the beer hall experience from central Europe? Judging by native Czechs visiting Denver, better than just pretty close.

“Our opening weekend, we had a patron in from the Czech Republic and she commented that the beers taste like home and Cohesion feels like home. We could not receive a better compliment than that,” Larkin said.

That ringing endorsement alone should make you want to Czech out Cohesion for yourself and learn a few things along the way about their rich tradition of brewing. Find Cohesion in Denver’s east RiNo area at 3851 Steele St.

Kyle Kirves drinks beer, plays guitar, runs trails, and manages projects – all with varying degrees of success. While not a craftsman himself, he is quite content writing about the Colorado artisans who create such wonderful things and memorable experiences.