Denver’s jazz scene rooted in history

By Kyle Kirves

When it comes to jazz — America’s music and its one truly native art form — certain destinations pop (or bop) to mind, both because of their association as root centers for the music, but also for their landmark venues.

One thinks of Preservation Hall in New Orleans, of course. Or the Blackhawk in San Francisco. Or Minton’s, Birdland, or any of the grand stages in New York. Rarely do you hear Denver numbered among the great jazz cities in America, but it belongs on the list. Despite its shape, Colorado is not a state for squares, man.

You can’t talk jazz in Denver or Colorado without starting (and ending) in the Five Points district, nicknamed the “Harlem of the West.” An epicenter of black life and pride west of the Mississippi, it was and remains a cultural way-station for jazz. Five Points’ own Rossonian Hotel (the Ross) was a legendary stop for jazz travelers making their way to and from the coasts. The Ross’ lounge became a haven for jazz musicians who gathered there and often played well into the morning. Not just session players, either. We’re talking jazz giants like Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald. Miles Davis, perhaps the single greatest innovator of jazz in American musical history, stayed at the venerated Ross.

So, the Ross has a reputation that is well-established and well-earned, but that street cred came about somewhat accidentally. Not welcome at white hotels in the segregated Denver proper, black musicians stayed where they could. In this case, in the predominantly black neighborhood of Five Points.

In both the mind’s eye and ear, it’s easy to imagine the Ross gaining its reputation as a post-gig hangout slowly, via word of mouth. It was a kind of musical speakeasy or secret garden capable of being found only by those who’d already been there. A few musicians gathered post-gig to jam, and that quickly evolved into the domain of the well-heeled, black and white alike. Once inside the lounge at the Ross, you were on the in…side.

The rich jazz tradition of Five Points fits hand-in-glove with that of the Ross. After being dormant for decades, the renovated hotel played host to the 2019 Five Points Jazz Festival shows. It’s a tradition that is sure to continue as more improvements are made to the Ross, prepping it for the next Roaring Twenties.

The jazz roots of Denver’s Five Points stretch farther than just the Rossonian, though. Classically trained jazz violinist, bandleader and entrepreneur George Morrison is virtually synonymous with Denver’s musical history. A Missouri native, Morrison migrated with his family to Boulder in 1900. Despite a touring career with bands and orchestras, including his own 12-piece group, he would always call Denver home. He opened his legendary jazz club, the Casino Cabaret, in 1920. The venue has remained a draw for top talent. Modern Denver music fans know it as Cervantes Masterpiece Ballroom, although the Casino Cabaret title still appears above the marquee.

Finally, to hear the local greats tell it, Lil’s Chinese Restaurant just outside Five Points was the place for after-hours fun and all-night jam sessions. The full history of Lil’s remains to be written, but would undoubtedly be as riveting as any pot-boiling page-turner.

Duke Ellington autographed headshot.
Photo: Courtesy of Leroy Smith’s scrapbook,
Blair-Caldwell African American Research Library, branch of the Denver Public Library.

A venue without talent is just an empty room, though. All ears perk up at the mention of Ella Fitzgerald or Louis Armstrong, but Five Points produced top-flight talent in its own backyards and schools. If we are judged by the company we keep, the musicians of Five Points should be held in high regard indeed. Charlotte Cowans, a light-touch finesse jazz pianist, is renowned for her skill and grace, and she counts Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and Art Tatum among her collaborators. Joe Keel, another Five Points pianist, played with Miles Davis and John Coltrane. Beatty “B.C.” Hobbs’ saxophone work is regarded as equal to that of Coltrane and Cannonball Adderley by some jazz aficionados.

Denver jazz was a gateway, too, for other musicians to move into other styles. Before becoming the first black symphonic performer in America (thank you, to the former Denver Symphony) famed bassist Charles Burrell came on the scene in the jazz joints of Five Points. In many ways, Burrell is to black symphonic musicians what Jackie Robinson is to baseball players.

A trip to the historic landmarks and jazz joints of Five Points makes for a great day trip. Plaques and guideposts inform visitors about the rich history of the district, including its musical legacy and much more. While you’re there, be sure to stop in to Spangalang Brewery (named for the rhythmic sound of a jazzy cymbal) and sample a jazz-themed beer such as “Birth of the Cool,” named for Miles Davis’ classic jazz must-have.

Dancing the night away to the jazz beat. Caldwell African American Research Library, branch of the Denver Public Library.

When you think of modern American music — whether it’s rock, blues, pop, rap, whatever — it is nearly impossible to consider its existence without the deep debt paid to the jazz greats who broke through in the early part of the 20th century. Similarly, it is difficult to imagine the city of Denver being as rich a melting pot as it is without the contributions of the residents of Five Points, their musical culture, and the embrace of national and local musicianship that was, and is, jazz.

Kyle Kirves drinks beer, plays guitar, runs trails, and manages projects – all with varying degrees of success. While not a craftsman himself, he is quite content writing about the Colorado artisans who create such wonderful things and memorable experiences.