Proudly going against the grain in Denver’s Baker neighborhood

By Katie Coakley

Some of the most exciting advances in civilization were created by going against the grain. One of the newest is taking place at Deviation Distilling, the latest player in the Denver distilling scene, where the spirits embody the idea of deviating from the norm.

“We like to say we’re rooted in tradition but different by design,” said Cindi Wiley, co-owner of Deviation Distilling. Wiley, with husband Bob Wiley and business partner Dave Gade, opened the distillery and planned to make three different types of whiskey.

They started creating these spirits in December 2017, after purchasing space in The Yard development near the Santa Fe Arts District. These three whiskeys — a four-grain bourbon made with all Colorado-grown grains, a rye whiskey with 100-percent malted rye and an American single malt made with 100-percent malted barley — will be released when they’re ready.

Instead of simply waiting for the bourbon to age, the Wileys and Gade decided to create gin, too. But instead of simply starting with a common, neutral base ethanol, Deviation Distilling starts with clear whiskey bases, creating two sister spirits.

“(Gade) had this crazy idea like, hey, what if we filter out some of the grains (from the whiskey base), leave a little bit of the grain in there for taste and then add botanicals that complement those grains,” Wiley explained. “So that’s how our three gins were born.”

Each whiskey has a sister gin, and Gade uses his culinary background to determine the botanicals that best complement the grain profile. For example, the Spice Trade gin shares the same base as the rye whiskey. Because the rye gives off baking notes, Gade decided to add cardamom, ginger, star anise, Thai basil, peppercorns and other warming botanicals to highlight the flavor from the rye.

The Citrus Rosé is a lighter, brighter tasting version (it’s actually pink in color) with grapefruit, tangerine and lemon, along with juniper, tarragon and other botanicals to complement the barley of the American single malt. The Mountain Herb is perhaps the most traditional offering, with wild foraged Rocky Mountain botanicals added to enhance the earthy flavors of the grains.

“It’s a unique way of doing it, which tells our story, but it’s also just efficient, as a process,” Wiley said. “When it comes out of the still, we can either decide to barrel it and age it (for whiskey) or turn it into gin.”

But the process is not the only thing that sets Deviation apart. You can’t judge a book by its cover, but take one look at Deviation’s bottles and you know that you’re tasting something a little different. These tall, rectangular, clear glass bottles sourced from Italy are unique and eye-catching. Each label, inspired by Washi paper designs, hints at the flavors found within the bottle. The design is so successful that the American Distilling Institute awarded Deviation Distilling the 2019 Gold Medal for Excellence in Packaging Brand Identity, as well as individual medals for each variety of gin.

Deviation Distilling’s gins are available in more than 80 Colorado liquor stores, as well as some Denver restaurants and bars, but we suggest visiting the brand-new cocktail lounge to sip from the source and look longingly at the barrels of aging whiskey.

The industrial chic décor is both inviting and interesting, giving a nod to the history of the area. The LUMBER sign over the fermenters is original from The Yard’s first life as the Stark Lumber Yard, and the bar top is made from reclaimed boxcar floor planks, tipping a hat to the nearby railroad tracks. Though refinished, the marks, scuffs and original numbered nail heads remain, giving the bar plenty of character for you to admire as you sample a tasting flight or choose a cocktail.

The cocktail menu is a mix of seasonal concoctions and twists on classics. The Salty Mimi is a favorite, a gin version of a Salty Dog with a family connection, and the Mountain Refresher is a take on the Tom Collins. Perhaps the most striking is the gin and tonic — packed with herbs and fruit. Wiley calls them a “salad in a glass.”

And if drinking a cocktail and calling it a salad is deviant behavior, then this is the type of deviation for which we should all strive.

If you go:

Deviation Distilling is located in The Yard at 900 W. 1st Ave, Suite #150, in Denver and is open Thursday from 4-9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays from 4-10 p.m. and Sundays from 2-6 p.m. Visit deviationdistilling.com for more information.

Katie Coakley is a Denver-based freelance writer who focuses on craft beer and spirits, travel and outdoor adventures — the best stories combine all three. You can see more of her work at katiecoakley.com.